Pics of 'Over and Above' Zimarra

So...honestly wasn't expecting to win the recent 'Over and Above' Challenge. There are too many other talented people in the world that I need to aspire too and learn from, just figured I wasn't a winner yet!

Anyway, as promised, her are some more pictures of my finished zimarra.

And a close up of my stitches...and the some of the beading, which is pretty much invisible on the finished thing:-(

And a close up of some of the couching and the buttons;

And a full length view. The snow was a very fresh and it was very bright out side hence the squinting. But it made for a good test run. The whole this is very much and sufficiently warm!

And the back. It is rather ornamentaly plain, but couldn't think of anything good to embellish it with in the time frame allowed.

waiting...

Well, I finished my zimarra and write up well on time, and have everything sent in. Waiting to see everyone's results from that before I post pictures of it here.

In the meantime I have been working on some quilting with my mother and aunt, and after that......oooooh there's just so many things that I want to do. What's been most on my mind of late is regency era clothing. There's been alot more of that floating around recently, and Zach and I have a chance to attend a gala in April and so why would I not take advantage of the opportunity and try my hand at something I have not done much of in the past?  I have been filling up some of my free time researching this dainty and romantic style and believe I have a pretty good idea of what I would like to do. 

For me;

Chemise - a very simple muslin chemise with a drawstring neckline, mid-calf length with several rows of tucks just above the hem.

Short stays - I really don't need much support in the bodice area and could probably do with a corded bodice in the petticoat, but what fun would that be? Its been a while since I've made anything in the 'corset' family, so this will be a good, small re-introduction. I'll probably use muslin or scraps of linen.

Bodiced Petticoat - self-explanatory, will also make this out of muslin, with a drawstring closure at the back waist, and a row of ruffles around the bottom hem.

Ball Gown - I have the gown drawn out on paper, just yet to decide if I wish to use the ivory silk that I have in my stash or go with something lighter like a voile or chiffon? Pleated bodice and a tiered skirt, with very decorated puffed sleeve. Maybe a bit on the gaudy side pattern wise for the era, but with very light flowy fabrics. 

And then possibly a velvet Spencer Jacket and a Poke Bonnet, but we'll see if I have the time and ambition when I get to that point.  The good thing about this outfit is that I could make everything from stash, with the exception of some more muslin, which is fairly affordable anyway (and I am aware that today's modern muslin is not the same as what was used in period, but will be close enough for dabbling in this time period). The other good thing is that most of the construction is very simple and straight-forward and shouldn't take me much time at all.

And for Zach;

shirt - muslin, dropped shoulder sleeves, no ruffles or embroidery so it should be the quickest shirt I've ever made for him!

(And this is where I am still a bit foggy on the terminology, so correct me if you happen to know different.)

Breaches - long narrow legged pants with buttoned front panel, will either make out of black, navy or white linen. I'm not very good with pants in general so this will be the interesting part to make fit.

Waistcoat - silk or linen vest, double breasted ....should also be simple, in theory any way

Tailcoat - jacket with large collar, long tails in back and very short in front. I have some dark blue wool in my stash that should be sufficient for this, need to find to find some military looking gimp and buttons for this as that would be the look he prefers.

Cravat-  Will make this from a long strip of silk. the interesting part will be learning how to tie it.....

His will be much more of a learning experience and I will definitely have to put more time into it, doing some more research and then with the tailoring.  I will also have to spend more on his as I will need to find suitable materials for his breaches and waistcoat. 

Depending on how quilting goes and a few business projects, I'll probably be starting my ensemble by week's end.

Progress Update

Just a quick run down of what I've done/what I have yet to do for the Over and Above;

The sleeves are finished except for sewing on the buttons and setting them into the main garment.

The shoulder rolls are cut, pinned, ready to be set into the main garment when I set in the sleeves.

The applique on the collar is finished.

The applique on the front opening in half finished.

I have approximately  12? more thread-covered buttons to finish.

So I need to;

1. finish the applique on the center front opening

2. bead the applique on the front opening

3. sew in the lining and set in the sleeves

4. finish making the buttons

5. make approximately 7 more yards of lucet cord

6. couch the lucet cord to front opening

7. sew on the buttons

I have only 12 and a half days to finish!

Lots of satin stitch practice!

Its the end of day nine of the 'Over and Above' mini-challenge and I have gotten the basic embroidery/applique finished on both sleeves and have made just a little over 13 yards of co-ordinating lucet cord for couching. I'm getting alot of satin stitch practice on this project! The collar is the next piece to be embellished, and I'm estimating I have about 7 more yards of lucet cord to make. 

I had two spools of gold thread, but the cat knocked one of them off the table and the dobermans destroyed it...so I'm gonna run out soon, and don't know how soon I'll be able to get more...... sigh. 

Here's some pictures;

Unfortunately the lovely lighting in our apartment does not lend well to taking good pictures:-(  Oh well.

Over and Above update

I decided to go with the Zimarra, as you may have guessed, and hope to someday sew the cloak as well.

Its been 3 and 1/2 days since the start of the challenge. All major pieces have been cut out and the body of the both the lining and outer layer have been sewed together. I used the machine for those bits. I plan to embroider trim along the sleeve opening and front opening and collar before I do any more assembly. I've been toying with different types of trim I could do, couching, beading, applique, embroidery.... think there might be all the above by the time I am finished. I'm kinda just winging it as I go. The portrait I'm taking most of my design from is Alessandro Allori's 'Portrait of a Woman' dated somewhere between 1580-1590. 

And here's a picture of the beginning of my version;

 and a close up;

I am using the same pink flannel for the applique as I am using for the lining, and its working very well so far. This is some of the first applique I am doing without using any form of adhesive. The flannel sticks pretty good to the wool just on its own!! I am using cotton crochet string from walmart....its not my first choice but all I have available. If I'd had the time or money, I would have loved to try metal bouillon as I have been wanting to experiment with that for quite a while. But alas I am stuck with what I have. I think I have some darker peach coloured crochet cotton somewhere that I would like to use as an accent/filling colour in the embroidery, and I have some rose coloured glass beads I would like to add to this at some point as well. Any, still lots to do!! So off I go......

Oh, this is my helper....he was so helpful he got a collar of the mangled pink flannel trimmings; 

'Over and Above' Idea

I've been needing to make myself a heavier zimarra or cloak for quite some time now. About the only SCA event I've been able to consistently attend for the last few years has been Uprising, and its usually bitter cold and wet, and so I'm quite happy for this excuse to make something warm. I basically have two options.

1. I recently made a waist length wool cape for a close friend and love how it turned out. I have enough of a dark green wool coating in my stash for the outer layer, but nothing suitable for a lining. I'd either have to invest in some velvet or flannel or something, which my budget right now does not really allow. I'd probably to a fairly simple guard along the edges for trim. Without looking, I'm thinking I remember several examples of this style in 'Moda a Firenze'.

2. My other option, which I think is more likely right now, is a flannel-lined wool Zimarra. I have some heavy black wool coating and some bright pink cotton flannel in my stash right now that I think would look striking together. I found this portrait on Bella's site with those colors, and the same basic shape I would want to go for.

Gian Paolo Lolmo, c1580: Portrait of a Woman Aged 19 Years

 

I would probably make the sleeves closed instead of open up the front for added warmth. And since my wool is plain and not patterned I'll have to do some other type of trim. I'd love to do surface embroidery over the whole thing, but don't think I could accomplish that in a month. I've been browsing Ebay and searching for some sort of appropriate trim, but have been having difficulty.  I'm thinking I'll probably end up doing something like the embroidered trim in this portrait of Countess Livia by Paolo Caliari;

 

 

 

Cotton flannel is what I will use since I have it, and it will be warm:-) But something I need to research is the use of flannel in period. I'm pretty positive about the existence of wool flannel, but I have my doubts about the existence of cotton flannel. I don't know where wool flannel would have all been used....Does anyone have any insight on period flannel????