Showing posts with label Regency. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Regency. Show all posts

Saturday, March 17, 2012

Regency Update

I have finished my chemise. It is made from muslin, sewn with flat felled seams, and has an adjustable drawstring neckline. I also trim the edges of the sleeves and neckline with a single row of Armenian needlelace.


The short stays are complete as well, and fit very well and are comfortable!! The shoulder straps are appropriately almost off the shoulder and leave room for a low, wide neckline, which I hope to achieve with the gown. 


I have started on the bodiced petticoat, but have run into multiple problems. I did not have enough muslin  for the bodice, and so decided to use some scraps of cotton voile for the bodice, but it has seemed to stretch and is very limp (duh!) The front opening overlaps at least 3 inches too far and the back waist has sagged far too low. So....I'll be playing with that today to see if I can't redo the bodice, maybe interline it with something heavier and bring in the front openings, and re gather the skirt....or something, so make it fit properly. 


I briefly debated leaving the petticoat and starting work on the gown. But, if I can't get the bodice on the petticoat to fit properly, what am I thinking starting on the gown. I still haven't determined the exact style I want for the bodice on the gown, wanting something ruched, and perhaps overlapped in the front.....still trying to figure out the technicalities in my head.... Hopefully I'll get the petticoat figured out today and then can start making out the mockup for the dress bodice. Realized the other day I have only about a month and a week to finish both my regency gown and Zach's ensemble, interrupted constantly by helping with renovations, other sewing jobs, etc.

Friday, March 9, 2012

Regency Short Stays

So still waiting to see what everyone did for the 'Over and Above' challenge........on the verge of anxiousness!

I started working on my regency short stays. They are made from two layers of soft cotton ticking and some pink quilting cotton. The cups are smocked (yes, I saw this done somewhere, but of course I did not record where. Maybe I should use this new Pinterest thing! It sounds like it would help!) Its fit so that the front does not come over halfway up my bust, which I understand is period....So far when I wrap it around me this feels very awkward, we'll have to see once I get a chance to lace it up.

The outside edge of the shoulder strap is on the same line as the side back seam, the correct period silhouette. There are two pieces of boning on each side of center front and two pieces each  coming from the side to the front. I also did some quilting and a little bit of embroidery just for fun.  I have one eyelet done, nine to go. Then make up the chemise real quick so I can take modest pictures of me wearing it. But for now here's some pictures of it on the table...

Monday, March 5, 2012

waiting...

Well, I finished my zimarra and write up well on time, and have everything sent in. Waiting to see everyone's results from that before I post pictures of it here.

In the meantime I have been working on some quilting with my mother and aunt, and after that......oooooh there's just so many things that I want to do. What's been most on my mind of late is regency era clothing. There's been alot more of that floating around recently, and Zach and I have a chance to attend a gala in April and so why would I not take advantage of the opportunity and try my hand at something I have not done much of in the past?  I have been filling up some of my free time researching this dainty and romantic style and believe I have a pretty good idea of what I would like to do. 

For me;

Chemise - a very simple muslin chemise with a drawstring neckline, mid-calf length with several rows of tucks just above the hem.

Short stays - I really don't need much support in the bodice area and could probably do with a corded bodice in the petticoat, but what fun would that be? Its been a while since I've made anything in the 'corset' family, so this will be a good, small re-introduction. I'll probably use muslin or scraps of linen.

Bodiced Petticoat - self-explanatory, will also make this out of muslin, with a drawstring closure at the back waist, and a row of ruffles around the bottom hem.

Ball Gown - I have the gown drawn out on paper, just yet to decide if I wish to use the ivory silk that I have in my stash or go with something lighter like a voile or chiffon? Pleated bodice and a tiered skirt, with very decorated puffed sleeve. Maybe a bit on the gaudy side pattern wise for the era, but with very light flowy fabrics. 

And then possibly a velvet Spencer Jacket and a Poke Bonnet, but we'll see if I have the time and ambition when I get to that point.  The good thing about this outfit is that I could make everything from stash, with the exception of some more muslin, which is fairly affordable anyway (and I am aware that today's modern muslin is not the same as what was used in period, but will be close enough for dabbling in this time period). The other good thing is that most of the construction is very simple and straight-forward and shouldn't take me much time at all.

And for Zach;

shirt - muslin, dropped shoulder sleeves, no ruffles or embroidery so it should be the quickest shirt I've ever made for him!

(And this is where I am still a bit foggy on the terminology, so correct me if you happen to know different.)

Breaches - long narrow legged pants with buttoned front panel, will either make out of black, navy or white linen. I'm not very good with pants in general so this will be the interesting part to make fit.

Waistcoat - silk or linen vest, double breasted ....should also be simple, in theory any way

Tailcoat - jacket with large collar, long tails in back and very short in front. I have some dark blue wool in my stash that should be sufficient for this, need to find to find some military looking gimp and buttons for this as that would be the look he prefers.

Cravat-  Will make this from a long strip of silk. the interesting part will be learning how to tie it.....

His will be much more of a learning experience and I will definitely have to put more time into it, doing some more research and then with the tailoring.  I will also have to spend more on his as I will need to find suitable materials for his breaches and waistcoat. 

Depending on how quilting goes and a few business projects, I'll probably be starting my ensemble by week's end.