Getting There

I'm still slowly plugging away on IRCC

Dress is almost done, need to hem the skirt and attach the sleeve parts and make lacings. Still wanting to do the leather trim along the bottom, but its not looking like its going to happen...unless I sew it in with a machine blanket stitch, which....well...would be machine done. So that may be another 'after the challenge' thing, like the trim on the bottom of my wedding dress, which never got done either...sigh. The trim is a very important part of the character of this gown though, so I really hope to get it done at some point.

And then there is the balzo fiasco. My first attempt was back near the beginning of the challenge when I tried steaming young stripped down branches, and simply could not get things to attach together securely, or even begin to achieve the right shape. The second attempt I actually finished, sent in IRCC update, and then decided it did not fit, and was way too lumpy looking. It was a stuffed and covered linen roll with a brim basically. Attempt number three was based of the directions on Oonagh's site, using a felt hat as a base. The hat that I had on hand however was not stable enough, I could not get the wrinkles out of the silk and again, everything was lumpy and did not fit...I never even got to the roll part on that one before giving up in extreme frustration.

In the end I have made a turban (my easy fall back to easily cover up any of numerous-bad-hair-days head-covering).  It is made from the green/purple silk taffeta, and is approximately two yards long by eighteen inches wide, rolled hemmed. I sewed a comb to center front to help keep it on, because the silk is slick and my hair is slick and thats not a good combination. I also made a fringe along the one end that sticks out a bit when its worn, and am very happy with how it turned out.

My poste is also almost done. It is made from the same silk. I deviated from the portrait here a bit as well, making it a bit longer and into a tube, and 'stuffing' the embroidered ends with a roll of wool to make the embroidery stand out. I still need to add the fringe around the bottom edges and then it will be completely done.

And a soccaccia; same silk, lined in some blinding chartreuse silk satin I had leftover from a customer sample. It is trimmed in sage green velvet ribbon leftover from one of the bridesmaid's gowns (theres a few bits of the ribbon on the poste as well). I want to make a narrow woven waist tie for this, and then it will be done.

I wanted to make matching garters from the silk as well, but with making the turban and wasting ( pout pout) silk with the balzo, I did not have enough silk, so I am weaving a pair of garters on the inkle loom  (the most recent activity I have been introduced too, which I am way to excited about). They will match the tie I will weave for the soccaccia.

Still on the start list is the partlet, stockings, and slippers, and maybe a pair of gloves, but I'm doubting I'll be able to get to those all. The partlet is the only thing that really must get done to finish the look. The other things are optional. I'm away from home for a few days helping my mom pack and clean to move, and I forgot my camera, so pictures will be delayed for a bit, and hopefully I can finish a few things up before I get home.

Baragoni, part two

So, since I can't seem to put more than ten pictures in one post, I'm having to do this in two parts...

After the velvet was seamed together, I folded the raw edges of the lining inside and whipstitched the seam.

I then folded the edge of the lining in about a half inch and pinned it to the already folded velvet on both the top and the bottom.

And then gathered it to fit, and sewed it down, running my needle through two 'pleats', and then snatching up the lining, and then through two more 'pleats'.

And the finished baragoni;

To attach the lower sleeves, I will probably make some lucet ties. I plan to whipstitch the top of the sleeve to the shoulder of the gown as this works best for me. But first I have a second baragoni to make, and this junction is my least favorite part. There is something very depressing about creating a sleeve, getting finished with it....and then having to do it all over again. Is it just me?

Baragoni, step by step, part one

Spent yesterday afternoon constructing my the first baragoni, or upper sleeve, for my Bacchiacca gown. For once I also took step by step photos.

I used a sleeve pattern I made a while back for the green Carpi gown. The lining is cut to a fitting size, and the velvet is cut two times as wide and three times as tall.

I then marked three evenly space lines from side to side on both the lining and the velvet. On the lining, I cut three strips of bias tape to the correct, finished width.

On the velvet I ran double lines of gathering stitch along the lines, the top two curving slightly upward into the curve of the shoulder. (The kitten is obsessed with the velvet and cuddles with it whenever I have it out. Its her legs sticking out from the top.)

On the top and bottom edges, I folded the velvet in about a half inch before putting in the gathering stitches.

Then I pinned the pre-cut pieces of bias tape to the velvet, along the lines, and  gathered to fit.

I then stitched the bias tape to the velvet, going through the gather at the top of the bias tape, and then through the bottom. The stitches are almost invisible on the right side.

After all the gathers were stitched down, the sleeve looked like this;

I then matched the top bias piece to the top line on the piece of linen, pinned it in place, and basted/tacked it in place

Again, I kept my stitches as invisible as possible, running the majority of my thread between the layers to keep it hidden. I started the stitch lines about an inch from the edges so that I would still have wiggle room to finish the seam.

And then pinned the edges of the velvet right side together and hand sewed the seam with about a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Skirt Pleated

So the trim is staying how it is on the shoulders. (Thanks Jane and Crystal:-)) And I am glad ya'll think it looks right,  because I wasn't looking forward to altering it!

In a spurt of energy, despite the heat last night, I was able to cartridge pleat my skirt onto my bodice.

The skirt is made from two panels of velvet, the front roughly three times the width of the front of the bodice and the back about four times as wide as the back of the bodice. The back is wider for deeper pleats and more fullness down the back. Instead of padding the pleats with wool, I simply folded the velvet over twice, as if making a very wide hem and stitched it down. I then basted the muslin lining into place.

I call what I have done 'cartridge pleating'. However I have never actually seen other's cartridge pleating in person where I can examine the process, nor have I found any good tutorials. What I did was whipstitch the outside edge of each pleat fold to the bottom edge of the bodice, and then went back and reinforced the position of the inside folds with a heavy thread. It looks right on the outside, but I'm fairly sure the inside has things that could be done differently. If anyone could point me in the right direction I would be most grateful.

I'll move on to the sleeves next as I am unsure how I want to finish off the hem on the skirt...and I am also waiting to see if I have sufficient time to think about tackling the appliqué around the bottom of the skirt.

So, I'm off for a glass of wine and sleeve mockup....

Trim Problem

So I have the bodice mostly put together,  just need to do the topstitching and work the eyelets, and resolve  a problem that has surfaced with the trim not fitting together with the the shoulder seams as I had hoped.

The bodice is interlined with one layer of medium weight linen/cotton and a layer (two layers center front) of wool flannel. I used the flannel  in lieu of felt as it was what I had on hand. Its much thinner however, so we will see how well it works. I decided against any cording  or boning, as the dress will already be heavy without it and I unfortunately have very little in the bodice area that needs supporting. The lining is black cotton velvet. I'm not sure at what point I decided to line my bodices with velvet, but there is something very nice about having a plush layer on the inside. This will be the third bodice I am lining like this. Unfortunately, I doubt that that is period,  but I haven't really researched it yet. One of these days when I have extra time....

So to the trim problem...When I drew out the pattern for the appliqué, there was  an unavoidable  1/2 inch gap in the pattern where the shoulder seam would be on each side. I had figured I would simply insert another 1/2 inch oval in the opening and it shouldn't be too noticeable. But somewhere along the line something stretched...or shrunk...so now there is about a 1 inch gap on each shoulder and I am not really sure what to do about it. I can't take in the seams in  either, as its already very snug along the shoulders. I'm open to suggestions.

Slow Progress

I apologize for the lack of updates, but progress has been slow between Uprising War and finishing up customer projects and camping garb for the summer. I was able to sell several pieces of my used garb at Uprising, so whats left can now fit in the bin with a closed lid. That makes me happy.  In the way of customer projects and projects for others in the next few months is a custom twin sized hand quilted quilt, riding shirt and matching jerkin for m'lords squire sister to wear for equestrian, as well as a another shift, venetian gown and perhaps an early florentine gamurra.  I also have a stack of mending to do....I guess I'd been ignoring it till now, because suddenly it has become hugish and unavoidable. 

In the area of IRCC progress, I have slowly been plugging away at the appliqué on the bodice. My goal was to finish that by the end of the week, but with my husband home and various other things going on, thats not going to happen. But I foresee it done by the end of next week at latest. My mantilla/sbergnia combo is cut out and hemmed, on arm slit is finished and the other about halfway so. I plan to trim it with a purple fringe, thanks to Hastings pointing me in the right direction. 

Camicia Finis!

Camicia is finished. I broke down at the end and used the machine for finishing the neckline and hem along the bottom. It won't be seen anyway when I'm dressed proper. I decided to do something brilliant (at least in my mind) for the neckline. Instead of pleating the fabric to a given measurement, pleat the neckline in half in box pleats all the way around, stitch it to a casing and run a drawstring through it. Thus, I have a neckline with even pleats which is still adjustable to the neckline of whichever gown it is being worn with. I'm hoping this will remedy my problem of camicia necklines either being too low or too high.

Next project will be finishing the gown, then I will have my four layers finished and can take time to play with the other elements till time's up. Uprising war is in less than two weeks, and Glory is in barely a month, so dress construction will fall between prepping and sewing camping garb.