Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Trim Problem

So I have the bodice mostly put together,  just need to do the topstitching and work the eyelets, and resolve  a problem that has surfaced with the trim not fitting together with the the shoulder seams as I had hoped.

The bodice is interlined with one layer of medium weight linen/cotton and a layer (two layers center front) of wool flannel. I used the flannel  in lieu of felt as it was what I had on hand. Its much thinner however, so we will see how well it works. I decided against any cording  or boning, as the dress will already be heavy without it and I unfortunately have very little in the bodice area that needs supporting. The lining is black cotton velvet. I'm not sure at what point I decided to line my bodices with velvet, but there is something very nice about having a plush layer on the inside. This will be the third bodice I am lining like this. Unfortunately, I doubt that that is period,  but I haven't really researched it yet. One of these days when I have extra time....

So to the trim problem...When I drew out the pattern for the appliqué, there was  an unavoidable  1/2 inch gap in the pattern where the shoulder seam would be on each side. I had figured I would simply insert another 1/2 inch oval in the opening and it shouldn't be too noticeable. But somewhere along the line something stretched...or now there is about a 1 inch gap on each shoulder and I am not really sure what to do about it. I can't take in the seams in  either, as its already very snug along the shoulders. I'm open to suggestions.

Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Slow Progress

I apologize for the lack of updates, but progress has been slow between Uprising War and finishing up customer projects and camping garb for the summer. I was able to sell several pieces of my used garb at Uprising, so whats left can now fit in the bin with a closed lid. That makes me happy.  In the way of customer projects and projects for others in the next few months is a custom twin sized hand quilted quilt, riding shirt and matching jerkin for m'lords squire sister to wear for equestrian, as well as a another shift, venetian gown and perhaps an early florentine gamurra.  I also have a stack of mending to do....I guess I'd been ignoring it till now, because suddenly it has become hugish and unavoidable. 

In the area of IRCC progress, I have slowly been plugging away at the appliqué on the bodice. My goal was to finish that by the end of the week, but with my husband home and various other things going on, thats not going to happen. But I foresee it done by the end of next week at latest. My mantilla/sbergnia combo is cut out and hemmed, on arm slit is finished and the other about halfway so. I plan to trim it with a purple fringe, thanks to Hastings pointing me in the right direction. 

Friday, June 1, 2012

Camicia Finis!

Camicia is finished. I broke down at the end and used the machine for finishing the neckline and hem along the bottom. It won't be seen anyway when I'm dressed proper. I decided to do something brilliant (at least in my mind) for the neckline. Instead of pleating the fabric to a given measurement, pleat the neckline in half in box pleats all the way around, stitch it to a casing and run a drawstring through it. Thus, I have a neckline with even pleats which is still adjustable to the neckline of whichever gown it is being worn with. I'm hoping this will remedy my problem of camicia necklines either being too low or too high.

Next project will be finishing the gown, then I will have my four layers finished and can take time to play with the other elements till time's up. Uprising war is in less than two weeks, and Glory is in barely a month, so dress construction will fall between prepping and sewing camping garb.